by Emily Bazelon

Under the Spell of Silken Tofu

How Mollie Katzen's cooking enchanted a whole generation

The back cover of my copy of the Moosewood Cookbook came off the other day. The masking tape I used to patch it is in keeping with the rest of the book, which is dog-eared and food speckled. There’s a small piece of onion stuck to page 13, next to a recipe for curried squash and mushroom soup, and what could be a footprint atop the instructions for Mexican corn and chili bread. The book belongs to my husband, so I can’t trace the history of every grease stain and tomato sauce dribble. But their origins are familiar.

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